A Journey Through Teochew Heritage: Dining at Cheng Hoo Thian Restaurant

If anyone asks me what my most memorable meal recently was, the answer is clear: Cheng Hoo Thian Restaurant in Whampoa West. I’ve passed by this old school Teochew restaurant many times, but even as a regular visitor of Teochew restaurants, this place feels like another level entirely. The story behind Cheng Hoo Thian is just as captivating as the food it serves.

Founded by Mr. Koh Cheng Hoo, the restaurant started as a humble zhi char stall around Clarke Quay in 1930. When you step inside, you’ll notice a framed, hand-written menu hanging on the wall—the first menu ever created for the restaurant. It’s a fascinating piece of history, complete with the original prices of their dishes.

After World War II, Cheng Hoo Thian relocated to New Market Road, near the current Ministry of Manpower building, before moving again to Tessensohn Road in 1970. By 1974, it had a second branch at Ning Yeung Wui Kuan on Hokkien Street. However, rising rent and road developments forced both outlets to close by the mid-1970s, and Cheng Hoo Thian transitioned to private dining for their loyal customers.

Fast forward to 2013, the founder’s youngest son, Mr. Jimmy Koh, reopened the restaurant at Keong Saik Road. But after a few years, they had to close again due to parking constraints and differences in business direction. It wasn’t until 2018 that Cheng Hoo Thian found its current home, reopening with Mr. Jimmy at the helm.

Recently, my friends and I decided to try their 7th Anniversary Thank You Set, available until 31 December 2024, for $690 nett (serving 10 pax). It included a mix of their signature dishes and some delightful surprises. What made the meal unforgettable was Boss Jimmy himself, sharing the restaurant’s history and the effort behind each dish.

Dinner started with Chilled Cold Crab with Yellow Roe and Double Shell, with crab so fresh and roe so creamy. Double Boiled Chicken with White Fungus & Mushrooms in Korean Ginseng Soup was a crowd favourite. Boss Jimmy even brought out the red ginseng he used, explaining its qualities and benefits. The soup had a delicate balance of herbal notes from the ginseng and the silky texture of the white fungus. The chicken was tender, and the dish felt like a warm hug—perfect for Singapore’s humid weather.

What’s a Teochew feast without Suckling Pig? The crispy, golden skin was divine, cracking perfectly under each bite, while the tender meat underneath was packed with flavour.

We alos enjoyed the Steamed Pomfret Teochew Style. The freshness of the pomfret shone through, but the star was the broth. It was so good that some of us ended up soaking our rice in it. Light and absolutely comforting. Another dish that paired well with rice is the Stewed Luffa with Homemade Beancurd and Prawns. The prawns in this dish were plump and fresh, pairing beautifully with the soft luffa and silky homemade beancurd.

After the luffa dish, the meal took a delightful twist.

The Pan-Fried Bombay Duck Omelette, an old-school recipe, was both intriguing and delicious. At first, the name left me puzzled—what does “duck” have to do with a dish that’s clearly not poultry? It turns out, Bombay duck is actually a type of fish, and its unique name has nothing to do with feathered creatures.

The story of Bombay duck’s name dates back to the early days of India’s railways. The fish, a staple in many Indian regions, was transported from Bombay (now Mumbai) to Calcutta by mail train. The Bengali word daak means “mail,” and over time, the British mispronounced and adopted the name as “Bombay Duck.” Some even say a British official, overwhelmed by the strong smell of the fish in the train, coined the term in jest.

Bombay duck is a familiar ingredient in Teochew cuisine. Traditionally, it’s cooked with tang hoon and ginger in a hearty soup, a comforting dish for many families. Here at Cheng Hoo Thian, they’ve given it a creative twist, transforming it into a crispy omelette. Instead of the usual oyster, they’ve replaced it with Bombay duck, lending the dish a distinctive flavour and an irresistible crunch that perfectly showcases the versatility of this humble fish.

Teochew-style siew mai, served with vinegar, was another winner. It was simple but definitely an iconic Teochew dish.

We ended the dinner with a bang: Sweet Yam Paste with Mandarin Orange and Ginkgo Nuts. This classic Teochew dessert, known as Orh Nee, was easily one of the best versions I’ve ever had. It’s not just the taste that impressed me but also the incredible effort and craftsmanship that went into its preparation.

If you enjoy Orh Nee without knowing the story behind it, you’re truly missing out. Boss Jimmy was kind enough to share the meticulous process involved, and his passion made the dish all the more memorable. Between jokes and heartfelt stories, he brought out a container of mandarin oranges that are hand-prepared over nine painstaking days.

The preparation is nothing short of an art form: the oranges are first washed and “showered” for four days, then layered with honey and malt sugar for a day, followed by slow cooking and a final resting phase before they’re ready. It’s an intricate and time-consuming process that very few restaurants would commit to, and it speaks volumes about the dedication behind every dish at Cheng Hoo Thian.

The result? A rich and velvety yam paste infused with the delicate citrus aroma of mandarin orange. Each mouthful was a harmonious blend of earthy sweetness and refreshing zest. It wasn’t just a dish—it was a labour of love, and every bite told its story. Truly a grand finale to an unforgettable meal.

This meal left such an impression that I know it won’t be my last visit. There are so many dishes I want to try, including the traditional Teochew wolf herring yusheng, Double Boiled 120-Year Preserved Lemon with Duck, Double Boiled Pig Stomach with White Pepper, and their Stewed Whole Boneless Chicken with Lotus or Chestnut Stuffing 94 years Old School Taste.

In a time when many heritage dishes risk disappearing, Cheng Hoo Thian is a rare gem, preserving the legacy of Teochew cuisine with care and passion. If you’re a fan of Teochew food—or just love a good story behind your meal—this is a dining experience you shouldn’t miss.

Not hosted, we paid for the full meal.