Rediscovering Heritage Dishes at Mama Jac’s Kitchenette Private Dining

Maureen
Maureen
September 25, 2024

I seldom write about my private dining experiences, for a couple of reasons. First, these intimate dinners are often a precious time with friends, and I’d rather enjoy the moment than get caught up photographing every dish. Second, many popular private dining spots are fully booked months in advance, and I don’t want my posts to inadvertently add more demand than they can handle. However, after revisiting Mama Jac’s Kitchenette, I still find myself impressed, and I feel it’s only right to share this hidden gem with you.

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Mama Jac is truly a fascinating character. A true-blue Cantonese who is passionate about cooking, she scours for old recipes and learns from various masters. Her culinary journey took a significant turn during the pandemic when, encouraged by her family, she transitioned from the pub business to private dining. The result is a unique Cantonese-Peranakan menu, a beautiful homage to the heritage dishes many of us no longer have the time or patience to prepare in our modern lives.

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In the process of urbanization, we’ve lost connection with much of the traditional food that our ancestors used to make every day. Many traditional Peranakan dishes have become increasingly rare, often enjoyed only through a special invitation into someone’s home. Mama Jac’s private dining brings these forgotten dishes back to life, starting with the Hati Babi Bungkus, a dish that few people outside of Peranakan circles have had the chance to taste. This unique dish consists of fried liver balls wrapped in pig’s caul lining, served alongside pickled mustard greens. The process of obtaining and cleaning the caul is laborious, which is why this dish is seldom found in restaurants today. But at Mama Jac’s, it’s a carefully crafted labor of love.

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Another standout was the Tohay. Pronounced “toe-hay,” this dish has its roots in Fuzhou but has been given a Peranakan twist. It begins with “Ang Chow,” a mix of glutinous rice, wine cake, and red yeast rice, which is fermented with “gragoh” (planktonic shrimps) until the shrimps amalgamate into the mixture. Mama Jac’s version is a delicate balance of flavors, enhanced with fried garlic, shallots, lemongrass, and pork belly, which absorbs the rich umami and tangy layers of the dish. It’s a dish that beautifully illustrates how one culture can share a recipe, and another can evolve it into something entirely new yet familiar.

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Then came the Babi Mengkabo, another rare Nyona dish that has virtually disappeared from restaurant menus. This old-school Peranakan pork dish is both sweet and slightly tangy, with a complex balance of flavors. It reminded me of Babi Assam, but with a hint of chili heat that added a whole new dimension to the pork collar. The subtle contrast of sweetness and tang is what makes this dish so special—another masterpiece of heritage cuisine you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

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The real star of the evening, however, was the Fish Laksa, a recipe that dates back to 1866. It stood out with its layers of amazing flavor, enhanced by the addition of finger root, which added a subtle, earthy complexity to the already rich broth.

The broth was fragrant with herbs and spices, perfectly balanced without being overly spicy or heavy. The fish, tender and succulent, absorbed the broth’s complexity, making the layers of flavour deeply rich yet surprisingly light. It’s hard to put into words how a single bowl can carry so much history, but Mama Jac’s laksa does just that.

The heritage dishes I’ve mentioned—like Hati Babi Bungkus, Tohay, Babi Mengkabo, and Fish Laksa—are not yet part of Mama Jac’s regular menu. She’s still perfecting these recipes, cooking them repeatedly to improve the flavors. We were honored to give her feedback on these special dishes during our dinner. If you’re interested in trying any of them, I encourage you to let her know. Mama Jac is always open to suggestions and loves engaging with her guests on what they’d like to see on the menu.

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For those eager to experience her specialty dishes, which are already a staple in her private dining menu, you can look forward to delights like Mango Salad, a refreshing start with a perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and spicy. The Hoi Zhou, a Cantonese-style deep-fried beancurd roll filled with minced pork and prawn, is crispy on the outside and tender inside. The Soup Brandy Itek Tim is a rich and flavourful duck soup enhanced with brandy, making it both warming and luxurious. A standout dish is the Sotong Stuff Buah Keluak, where tender squid is filled with a rich, earthy buah keluak stuffing that’s both bold and fragrant.

Other must-tries include the Nasi Ulam, a refreshing herb-infused rice dish, and the Ayam Sioh, a tender chicken dish cooked in a tangy tamarind sauce that’s simply mouthwatering. Don’t miss the dessert: Sago Gula Melaka with Durian Pengat, a heavenly combination of creamy sago, rich gula melaka, and durian that brings the meal to a perfect close.

What sets Mama Jac’s Kitchenette apart isn’t just the dishes themselves but the heart and soul she puts into her cooking. She doesn’t simply follow a recipe—she immerses herself in the history and methodology of each dish. Listening to her recount the care she takes in sourcing ingredients, the long hours spent in preparation, and the intricate techniques she’s mastered over time was almost as enjoyable as the food itself. It’s this dedication that brings these heritage dishes to life, honoring the skills and traditions of those who came before us.

If you ever have the chance to experience Mama Jac’s private dining, I highly recommend you do so. It’s more than just a meal—it’s a journey into Singapore’s past, a reminder of the flavours we risk losing in the face of modern convenience. And in a city where old recipes are often forgotten, Mama Jac is making sure these dishes live on.

If you have old recipes passed down from your ancestors that you’d like to share or would like to book a private dinner at her home, Mama Jac would love to hear from you. Whatsapp wa.me/+6594568298 to RSVP